Fluxul procesului de turnare a bijuteriilor din oțel inoxidabil

În prezent, procesul de turnare cu ceară pierdută este folosit în principal pentru bijuterii din oțel inoxidabil, iar procesul său specific este: 1. Fabricarea plăcilor pierdute necesită plăci de ceară, în timp ce producția în loturi de plăci de ceară necesită matrițe de cauciuc presate cu plăci de argint. este cel mai solicitant proces în producția bijuteriilor din oțel inoxidabil, necesitând suprafața, părți goale, și partea din spate a plăcii de argint să fie netedă și fără zgârieturi. De asemenea, este nevoie ca structura fiecărei părți a plăcii de argint să fie rezonabilă, poziția și dimensiunea incrustației diamantului să fie exacte, iar unele necesită preprocesarea pieselor de incrustație. Doar după pregătirea plăcii de argint putem intra în procesul de turnare cu ceară pierdută. Vă rugăm să rețineți că principalele tehnici de fabricare a plăcilor folosite în prezent sunt: placă de ceară sculptată manual, computer carved wax plate, and hand raised silver plate. The three processes each have their own advantages and complement each other. Hand carved wax plates are made by carving the shape on the design drawing with paraffin wax, and then pouring out the silver plate using the method of lost wax casting; The difference between computer wax carving and manual wax carving is that it combines computer 3D software with a wax spraying machine to create a wax mold shape, and then uses the method of wax casting to pour out the silver plate; Handmade silver plate refers to the process where the plate maker directly handcrafts the model on the design drawing. Due to its fast plate making speed, easy modification during the wax carving process, and relatively low tool wear, manual wax carving plates are widely used. 2. Lost wax casting Lost wax casting, commonly known as reverse casting, is an important means of producing stainless steel jewelry at present. (1) Pressing rubber mold Precautions and process for pressing rubber molds: 1) The mold frame and raw film should be cleaned, and do not touch the surface of the raw film directly with your hands. 2) To ensure that there is no adhesion between the original version and the rubber, silver plates should be used first, and copper plates should be silver plated first. 3) Determine the appropriate vulcanization temperature and time, which basically follow a functional relationship and are related to the thickness, length, width, and complexity of the original mold. The molding temperature is usually set at around 150 degrees. If the thickness of the rubber mold is 3 layers (about 10mm), the general vulcanization time is 20-25 minutes. If it is 4 layers (about 13mm), the vulcanization time can be 30-35 minutes. And so on. În același timp, the vulcanization temperature is also related to the complexity of the original version. If the original version is complex and small, the vulcanization temperature should be lowered and the vulcanization time extended. 4) When pressing the mold, it is necessary to ensure that there is no gap between the original version and the raw film. Fill the gaps, concave areas, and stone inlay areas on the first plate by inserting, wrapping, and filling them with small rubber particles, and press them tightly with a sharp object (such as tweezers). 5) Preheat first. After the vulcanization time is up, quickly remove the rubber mold. The pressed rubber mold should not deform, be smooth, and have a straight water line. It is best to let it cool naturally until it is not hot to the touch, and then use a sharp surgical knife to open the rubber mold while it is still hot. (2) Opening glue molds and wax injection molds 1) Opening the adhesive mold: The technical requirements for opening adhesive molds are very high. Because the quality of the glue mold directly affects the quality of the wax mold and metal blank. The tools for opening adhesive molds are relatively simple, including surgical knives, tweezers, scissors, pointed nose pliers, etc.. The adhesive mold usually adopts the four foot positioning method, that is to say. The opened rubber mold has four legs that are fixed to each other, and the part between the four legs is cut in a straight line or a curved line. Attention should be paid to inspecting the opened rubber mold. There should be no defects such as obvious broken patterns, missing corners, adhesion, etc.. inside the mold, which may cause defects in the wax mold. Prin urmare, these defective areas should be repaired, such as cutting open uncut positions and using a wax welder to weld the broken patterns, missing corners, etc.. 2) Wax injection mold: After the rubber mold is opened, the wax injection operation can be carried out. Attention should be paid to mastering factors such as wax temperature, pressure, and the tightness of the adhesive film during wax injection operation. 3) Repairing wax molds and planting wax trees Repairing wax molds: In general, the wax molds taken out after wax injection may have some problems to varying degrees. For defects such as flying edges, multiple edges, pinch marks, capete de flori neclare, sau margini suprapuse, pot fi folosite lame chirurgicale pentru a le netezi; Pentru găurile de nisip, ghiarele rupte pot fi reparate cu un dispozitiv de sudare cu ceară; Găurile mici care nu sunt accesibile pot fi străpunse cu ace de lipit; Deformarea matrițelor de ceară poate fi corectată în apă fierbinte la 40-50 ℃. Dacă dimensiunea mâinii este incorectă, ar trebui să schimbați direct inelul degetului atunci când reparați ceara. Plantarea arborilor de ceară: Matrițele de ceară pregătite se sudează secvențial pe straturi de-a lungul circumferinței pe un băț de ceară folosind un aparat de sudare cu ceară, rezultând un arbore de ceară care seamănă ca formă cu un copac mare. (3) Turnare și coacere gips: Acoperiți arborele de ceară plantat cu un tub din oțel inoxidabil împreună cu sasiul; Amestecați greutatea corespunzătoare de pulbere de gips și apă pentru a forma o pastă de gips. After the first vacuum pumping, slowly inject the gypsum slurry along the inner wall of the steel bell. Do not pour the gypsum slurry directly onto the wax tree. Continue vacuuming for the second time until the gypsum slurry is about 1cm below the wax tree. Then let it stand naturally for 12-24 hours to ensure the solidification of the gypsum. Baking gypsum: The baking of gypsum molds is an important process to ensure the normal progress of casting. Its main functions are dewaxing, drying, and casting insulation. In general, the dewaxing temperature is 0-250 ℃ and the holding time is 1.5-2 hours; The drying temperature is 250-600 ℃, and the insulation time is 2-3 hours; Heating up to 600-900 ℃ midway, with a holding time of 2-3 hours; The casting temperature is 900-1000 ℃, and the insulation time is 2-4 hours. (4) Melting steel and casting Stainless steel smelting is not just about simple melting, but also involves the smelting process to ensure that the metal poured into the mold meets the expected requirements in terms of temperature, chemical composition, and purity. Prin urmare, a quality control testing process must be carried out during the melting process, and the purity of the liquid metal must meet the pouring requirements before pouring can be allowed. As the baking of the gypsum mold approaches its end, the stainless steel begins to melt and maintain its molten state. After the gypsum mold is insulated, inject the stainless steel liquid from the water outlet to complete the casting. (5) Blasting, cleaning, and sawing of gypsum molds The cast gypsum mold is in a high temperature state. After being taken out of the casting machine, it should be left to stand naturally for 30-60 minutes, and then placed in cold water for frying and washing. After the gypsum explodes due to shrinkage, the steel tree is taken out, and large pieces of gypsum are brushed off with a steel brush. The steel tree is then sprayed with a high-pressure cleaning gun to remove the remaining gypsum until the surface of the steel tree is clean. The accessories on the steel tree are cut along the bottom of the water outlet or cut with a cutting machine, and then rolled in a drum for 20-30 minutes before being taken out. After cleaning and electrolyzing, it can be delivered to the warehouse or proceed to the next process. (6) Mold holding and inlay The touch process of stainless steel jewelry refers to the process step after wax loss casting and before inlay. Due to shrinkage and deformation caused by casting, the surface of the mold often has problems such as sand holes, bulges, heavy edges, dents, and even fractures, which require repair and correction. The usual process sequence is: shaping – grinding the water mouth – checking and repairing cracks and sand holes – correcting the shape – sanding (or rubber wheel). (7) Polishing Polishing is the most important step in the surface treatment process of stainless steel jewelry, and it is a crucial process in the production of stainless steel jewelry. The polished surface of the jewelry should be extremely bright, giving people a dazzling beauty. Only by achieving a mirror like shining effect can it attract customers’ attention. Polishing is the general term for smoothing and polishing the surface of stainless steel jewelry. Polishing can only be carried out after the scratches, burrs, and edges on the surface of stainless steel jewelry have been completely polished. The polishing and finishing of stainless steel jewelry usually use “purple wax” și “blue wax”. Purple wax “is a coarse abrasive that can quickly remove sandpaper marks or small scratches. If used correctly, it can polish metal surfaces very smoothly, but still lacks some brightness. Green wax can throw a bright light out of metal, and its function is only to polish it. De fapt, the heat generated by high-speed friction can make the metal surface soft and fill the slightest scratches, achieving a very smooth level and thus having a shiny effect.